It’s not that I’m not willing to spend $22 on a divine scented candle in great packaging, but I’m not a happy camper when it’s burnt out in two days. So, I decided I’d learn to make my own, and as it turns out, it’s quite easy! Here’s my step-by-step tutorial.
1. Stuff you need:
-A double boiler (this one is from Ikea)
-Containers. Glass jars, old coffee tins, whatever you like.
–Wax. I use natural soy way that I buy here, or you can buy some at your local craft store.
-Wicks. The wicks that I buy at Millcreek come with these useful stickers at the bottom, which you can use to attach the wick to the bottom of your container.
-Essential oils for fragrance and dyes for color. I think they look most elegant in their natural color, but if you want to add some drops of coloring, suit yourself.
2. Let’s get started. If you’re recycling old candles, place the candle on top of wax paper (and a cutting board) and start choppin’. I use a screwdriver to break it up. The wax I buy comes in flakes, so you can skip this step if you’re using new wax.
3. Put some water in the bottom boiler and your wax in the top. Turn the range on low. As the water boils, your wax will start to melt and liquify. While you’re waiting for this, you can prep the containers.
4. Place a wick sticker on the bottom of the wick and secure the wick to the bottom of your container.
When you pour the wax, the wick is going to get all sad and limp. So I use a clothes pin or two to hold it in place and keep it upright while the wax cools.
5 . You can add a few drops of your fragrances into the double boiler pretty much whenever you want, but I do it just before pouring. Same goes for your color dyes. You may want to keep a plastic spoon on hand to swirl it all together.
6. When the wax is liquified and about 100 degrees (you can find a thermometer for just this purpose by the candle supplies at the craft store), go ahead and pour it into your container. Leave about 1/2″ at the top.
7. Your first pour is going to leave a bit of a sinkhole around the wick. So when your wax is almost entirely cooled (give it and hour or so), top it off with some more melted wax. Perhaps you want to use this opportunity to throw in a surprise.
8. Ok, go ahead and trim up the excess wick. You’re done!
Trouble shooting:
-Flashing: You over-poured or hit the side of your container. Oh well, now you know.
-Bumps and sink holes. This is a pain in the neck, and unfortunately comes with the learning curve. Tip: the cooler you pour it, the less likely you are to get bumps or sink holes.
Give it a try and leave a comment if you have any questions. Chances are someone else has the same question.
» Catherine Nicole / Style Clouds The Literate Packrat
[...] Catherine Nicole donates $5 from every sale to enable impoverished girls start businesses of their own — very cool! She also has a blog, which I haven’t perused fully, but where I did find a great tutorial on making your own container candles. [...]
I am having trouble with my candles going out shortly after they start burning. any tips? i have tried dipping my wicks in wax and allowing it to dry first but still no luck:( also do u use stearic acid in any of your candles,and if so how much?
Holly,
I don’t use any acid, and I don’t dip the wicks in wax either. I would think that would made it less likely to light. I suggest starting with a longer wick, or buying a totally different wick than the one you are using. My favorite is this one. Good luck!
Holly,
you might want to try a thicker wick, I have had the same problem with candles before and it was easily solved this way.
How to Make Soap (The Easy, Melt and Pour Way) | Catherine Nicole
[...] Shea Butter, Glycerin, Goat Milk, or Beeswax base: … You can buy these at the same craft stores. I also like a company called Millcreek Soy Wax that I usually order candle-making supplies from. (Candle-making is VERY similar to soap making, so if you’re interested, read my tutorial.) [...]